Title Odabrani nusproizvodi biljnoga podrijetla kao kozmeceutici Author Erika Dobroslavić Mentor Marijana Zovko Končić (mentor)Committee member Dubravka Vitali Čepo (predsjednik povjerenstva)Committee member Marijana Zovko Končić (član povjerenstva)Committee member Zdenka Kalođera (član povjerenstva)Granter University of Zagreb Defense date and country 2022-09-29, Croatia Scientific / art field, BIOMEDICINE AND HEALTHCARE Abstract Cilj istraživanja: Nusproizvodi vinarstva, proizvodnje maslinova ulja i prerade agruma zbog svojega sastava i mogućnosti ekstrakcije posjeduju potencijal za primjenu u kozmetičkoj industriji. Cilj ovog istraživanja je provesti detaljnu pretragu literature o zabilježenim djelovanjima njihovih ekstrakata na kožu samostalno, ili u sklopu kozmetičkih formulacija.
Materijali i metode: Za potrebe pisanja specijalističkog rada pretražene su elektroničke baze ScienceDirect i PubMed. Pregledane su sve publikacije koje su se pojavile kao rezultat pretrage s dostupnim cjelovitim tekstovima, ili u iznimnim slučajevima sažecima. Odabir je ograničen na izvorne radove objavljene na engleskom jeziku s istraženim djelovanjem ekstrakata nusproizvoda na kožu i mehanizme povezane s tim učinkom.
Rezultati: Radom su obuhvaćene 52 publikacije, od čega 22 za nusproizvode vinarstva, 18 za nusproizvode proizvodnje maslinova ulja te 12 za nusproizvode prerade agruma. Navedena istraživanja sistematično su obrađena na temelju zabilježenih učinaka. Nusproizvodi vinarstva i proizvodnje maslinova ulja pokazali su anti-aging, antimikrobno i protuupalno djelovanje te djelovanje na zacjeljivanje rana, melanogenezu i povećanje učinkovitosti pripravaka UV zaštite. Komina grožđa, uključujući peteljke, najbolje je istražen dio nusproizvoda vinarstva. Ekstrakti lista masline najbolje su istražen dio nusproizvoda proizvodnje maslinova ulja. Nusproizvodi prerade agruma pokazali su anti-aging, antimikrobno i protuupalno djelovanje te djelovanje na zacjeljivanje rana, melanogenezu i aktivaciju TRPA-1. Ekstrakti lišća različitih vrsta agruma najbolje su istražen dio nusproizvoda prerade agruma.
Zaključak: Sve tri vrste nusproizvoda pokazuju potencijal za primjenu u kozmetici kao sastavnice proizvoda različitih namjena. Izražena je potreba za optimiranjem ekstrakcijskih postupaka s fokusom na pojedine skupine bioaktivnih molekula uzimajući u obzir i sinergijske učinke, kao i za istraživanjem optimalnih oblika dostave koji bi rezultirali maksimalnim iskorištenjem povoljnih djelovanja. Također, nužan je veći broj kliničkih studija s primjenom formuliranih pripravaka s većim brojem ispitanika budući da su brojna djelovanja potvrđena primjenom samostalnih ekstrakata, te in-vitro.
Abstract (english) Objective of the research: By-products of winemaking, olive oil production and citrus processing, due to their composition and well researched extraction possibilities, have the potential for use in the cosmetic industry. The aim of this research is to conduct a detailed literature review on the effects of these by-products' extracts on their own or as a part of cosmetic formulations.
Materials and methods: For the purposes of writing this research, the electronic databases ScienceDirect and PubMed were searched. All publications that appeared as a result of the search with available full texts, or in exceptional cases abstracts, were reviewed. The selection was limited to original papers published in English with the investigated effect of by-product extracts on skin and skin-related mechanisms.
Results: The paper includes 52 publications, 22 of which are for by-products of winemaking, 18 for by-products of olive oil production and 12 for by-products of citrus processing. These studies have been systematically processed based on the recorded effects. By-products of winemaking and olive oil production have shown anti-aging, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as effects on wound healing, melanogenesis and increasing the effectiveness of UV protection preparations. Grape pomace, including stalks, is the best researched part of winemaking by-products. Olive leaf extracts are the best researched part of the by-products of olive oil production. Citrus by-products have shown anti-aging, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as effects on wound healing, melanogenesis and TRPA-1 activation. Leaf extracts of different types of citrus fruits are the best researched part of citrus processing by-products.
Conclusion: All three types of by-products show the potential for use in cosmetics as ingredients of products with different purposes. There is a need to optimize the extraction procedures focusing on certain groups of bioactive molecules taking into account possible synergistic effects, as well as to explore optimal forms of delivery that would result in maximum utilization of the by-products' beneficial properties. Also, clinical studies with the application of formulated cosmetic preparations on larger number of subjects are necessary, since a number of effects have been confirmed mostly on extracts alone and in-vitro.
Keywords
nusproizvodi
kozmeceutici
biljni ekstrakti
vinarstvo
proizvodnja maslinova ulja
prerada agruma
Keywords (english)
by-products
cosmeceutics
herbal extracts
winemaking
olive oil production
citrus processing
Language croatian URN:NBN urn:nbn:hr:163:472088 Study programme Title: Dermopharmacy and cosmetology Type of resource Text File origin Born digital Access conditions Open access Terms of use Created on 2022-11-09 10:16:56
