| Abstract | Cilj istraživanja
Na modernom tržištu kozmetičkih pripravaka raste potražnja za prirodnim kozmetičkim proizvodima, a sukladno tomu raste i potreba za učinkovitim i prirodnim sastojcima. Na tom polju alge sa svojim brojnim biološkim učincima predstavljaju potencijalno bogat izvor metabolita s potencijalnim pozitivnim učinkom na kožu. Neki od metabolita alga djeluju anihiperpigmentacijski te se smatra da bi alge i produkti izolirani iz njih mogli pronaći svoje mjesto u sastavu pripravaka za izbjeljivanje kože. Stoga, cilj ovog rada bio je proučiti antihiperpigmentacijski učinak alga i njihovih metabolita te procijeniti njihovu vrijednost kao izvora novih aktivnih tvari za kozmetičke pripravke.
Materijal i metode
Glavna baza za pretraživanje studija za rad je bila elektronička baza PubMed. Studije su pretražene na temelju kombinacije pojmova algae, seaweed, tyrosinase, pigmentation, hyperpigmentation, melanogenesis, skin-whitening, i drugih povezanih osnovnim logičkim operatorima AND, OR i NOT. U rad su uvrštene studije koje su istraživale anihiperpigmentacijski učinak ekstrakata alga i njhovih metabolita na in vitro, in vivo te ex vivo modelima kao i kliničke studije. Odabir znanstvenih radova je bio ograničen na one objavljene na engleskom jeziku. Radovi su bili odabrani neovisno o datumu njihove objave. Rezultati
Radom obuhvaćene studije pokazale su da su ekstrakti i metaboliti alga učinkoviti u topikalnom tretmanu hiperpigmentacija kože. Većina studija opisuje učinak ekstrakata smeđih alga, dok su studije zelenih alga, crvenih i modrozelenih alga manje zastupljene. Uz navedeno, opisan je učinak fukoidana i drugih sulfatiranih polisaharida kao aktivnih metabolita, obrađene su i studije s polifenolima kao i drugim metabolitima alga koji su dali određene pozitivne rezultate. Ti rezultati su očitovani kao inhibicija slobodne ili stanične tirozinaze, učinak izbjeljivanja na in vivo modelima poput zebrica ili na dobrovoljcima. Uz navedene rezultate uključene su i studije koje su ukazala ne dobar protuupalni, UV-protektivni i antioksidacijski učinak ispitivanih metabolita i ekstrakata alga koji bi u posretno mogli utjecati na hiperpigmentacije. Po učinkovitosti i brojnosti provedenih studija su se istaknuli ekstrakti smeđih alga, te njihov metabolit fukoidan.
Zaključak
Ekstrakti i metaboliti alga obuhvaćeni ovim radom pokazali su značajno antihiperpigmentacijsko djelovanje. Po djelotvornosti su se istaknuli ekstrakti smeđih alga i metabolit fukoidan, koji je karakterističan za smeđe alge. Unatoč tomu, potrebna su dodatna preciznije definirana ispitivanja uz dugoročno praćenje pacijenata, koja bi pridonijela boljem uvidu u učinkovitost i sigurnost primjene pojedinih ekstrakata i metabolita alga. |
| Abstract (english) | Objectives
In the modern market of cosmetic preparations, the demand for natural products is growing, in line with the growth and the need for effective and natural ingredients. In this field, algae with their numerous effects represent a potentially rich source of metabolites potentially positive effect on the skin. One of the effects of algal metabolites is the antipigmentation activity, and it is believed that algae and products isolated from the mould find their place in the composition of whitening cosmetic preparations. Therefore, the aim of this work was to examine the antihyperpigmentation effect of algae and their metabolites and to evaluate their value as a source of new active substances for cosmetic preparations.
Matherial and Methods
The main database for searching studies for the paper was the electronic database PubMed. Studies were searched based on a combination of the terms algae, seaweed, tyrosinase, pigmentation, hyperpigmentation, melanogenesis, skin-whitening, and others connected by the basic logical operators AND, OR and NOT. The work included studies investigating the antihyperpigmentation effect of algae extracts and their metabolites on in vitro, in vivo and ex vivo models, as well as clinical studies. The selection of scientific papers was limited to those published in English. The studies were selected regardless of the date of their publication.
Results
The studies included in this work have shown that algal extracts and metabolites are effective in the topical treatment of skin hyperpigmentation. Most studies describe the effect
of brown algae extracts, while studies of green algae, red algae, and blue-green algae are less prevalent. In addition, the effect of fucoidan and other sulfated polysaccharides as activemetabolites is described. Furthermore, the work provides studies with polyphenols as well as other algal metabolites. Positive resultes observed in the studies were manifested as inhibition of free or cellular tyrosinase, a bleaching effect on in vivo models such as zebrafish or on volunteers. In addition to these results, studies good anti-inflammatory, UV-protective and antioxidant effect of the investigated metabolites and algal extracts, which could positively affect hyperpigmentation. By the effectiveness and number of conducted studies, most
notable resultes were displayed by brown algae extracts and their metabolite fucoidan.
Conclusion
Algae extracts and metabolites included in this work showed significant anti-hyperpigmentation activity. Extracts from brown algae and the metabolite fucoidan, which is characteristic for brown algae, stood out for their effectiveness. Despite this, additional more precisely defined tests with long-term follow-up of patients are needed, which would contribute to a better insight into the effectiveness and safety of the use of individual extracts and algal metabolites |
