Optimiranje losiona za čišćenje kože lica reološkom metodom

master's thesis

• Title (english): Optimizing the facial skin cleanser by rheological method
• Author: Katarina Šarić
• Mentor: Jasmina Lovrić (mentor)
• Committee member: Jasmina Lovrić (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Anita Hafner (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Marijana Zovko Končić (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry; (Department of pharmaceutical technology); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2019-08-29, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: BIOMEDICINE AND HEALTHCARE; Pharmacy; Pharmacy

Abstract

Losioni za čišćenje kože lica kozmetički su pripravci čija svojstva moraju biti posebno prilagođena kako bi se smanjila mogućnost iritacije kože nakon čišćenja. Alkalne pH vrijednosti losiona za čišćenje lica mogu uzrokovati iritacije i suhoću kože. Cilj ovog diplomskog rada je optimizirati losion za čišćenje lica reološkom metodom kako bi se postigla odgovarajuća reološka svojstva pri čemu je pH unutar prikladnog raspona. U navedenom je losionu kao emulgator korišten trietanolamin stearat, koji nastaje in situ reakcijom između trietanolamina iz vodene faze i stearinske kiseline iz uljne faze losiona. Promjenom udjela trietanolamina i stearinske kiseline mijenja se pH losiona, ali dolazi i do promjene njegovih reoloških svojstava. Prividna viskoznost losiona rasla je smanjenjem udjela trietanolamina od 2 % (m/m) do 0,25 % (m/m), a smanjivala se smanjenjem udjela stearinske kiseline od 5 % (m/m) do 1 % (m/m). Pojedina reološka svojstva odraz su osjetilnih karakteristika koje značajno utječu na odabir kozmetičkog proizvoda od strane potrošača. Za optimizaciju reoloških svojstava losiona nije dovoljno podesiti sastav trietanolamina i stearinske kiseline, već je potrebno varirati/dodati i druge sastavnice/tvari s utjecajem na strukturu i stabilnost losiona.

Abstract (english)

Facial skin cleansers are cosmetic preparations whose properties must be specially adapted to reduce the risk of skin irritation after cleansing. Alkaline pH values for facial cleansing can cause irritation and skin dryness. The aim of this graduate thesis is to optimize facial cleansing by a rheological method to achieve the appropriate rheological properties with the pH within the appropriate range. In said lotion as emulsifier is used triethanolamine stearate, which is generated in situ by reaction between the triethanolamine from aqueous phase and the stearic acid from the oily phase of the lotion. Changing the proportion of triethanolamine and stearic acid changes the pH of the lotion but changes its rheological properties. The apparent viscosity of the lotion increased by decreasing the share of triethanolamine from 2% (m/m) to 0.25% (m/m) and decreasing by 5% (m/m) to 1% (m/m). Some rheological properties reflect the sensory characteristics that significantly influence the choice of cosmetic products by consumers. The composition of triethanolamine and stearic acid is not sufficient to optimize the rheological properties of lotions, it is also necessary to vary/add other constituents/substances with influence on the structure and stability of the lotion.

• Keywords: losion za čišćenje lica; pH; reološka karakterizacija; koža lica
• Keywords (english): facial cleansing lotion; pH; rheological characterization; facial skin
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:163:111715
• Study programme: Title: Pharmacy; Study programme type: university; Study level: integrated undergraduate and graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra farmacije (magistar/magistra farmacije)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Open access
• Created on: 2020-02-28 12:48:30